News flash, I'm in Germany visiting my sister for a week. Had to put that in there so the rest of this particular entry makes sense.
I spent Wednesday and Thursday in Berlin by myself since my sister had to deal with a slight inconvenience better known as work. Not one to just sit around here in her BOQ room, I decided that Berlin sounded interesting. In short, it was, but the last 40 minutes I spent in the city were some of the most impactful (is that even a word?), and I feel compelled to write about them.
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is 2711 concrete stelae layed out in an area over 19,000 square meters. From what I'd heard about it on the news when it was completed, there were definitely mixed feelings from Berliners, Germans in general and other populations. It's a very abstract memorial, and it doesn't seem to make much sense. However, the 40 minutes I spent wandering amongst the stelae (some of which top 4 meters/13ish feet), I can say that the memorial is incredibly profound.
To begin, you walk into the field of stelae, and at first they're flat or very small, and the next thing you know, they're over your head. To me, it struck a chord with how evil (in this case the Nazis) can come from nowhere, and yet suddenly engulf a country and lead to overwhelming evil and their plan for genocide. Reaching the middle of the field, all of the stelae tower over your head, and if you are at one of the dips in the ground, it seems impossible to imagine a way out of the field. I felt a sense of panic even though I knew that I was only a short distance from the busy streets of Berlin. The memorial was all around me, and owing to the gray rainy weather, there was an almost complete lack of other tourists, and I felt small, alone and insignificant. The rain misting over the blocks contributed to the melancholic air, as it seemed that all 2,711 stelae were weeping over the lives and potential lost to the devastation.
Inside the field, there are even regimented corridors, it reminded me of something very military, except that the ground undulates and you can't see around corners. At any point another tourist could round the corner or run into you at a crossroads, it became a significant event just to move through the rows. Much as life in general became a significant event for the oppressed Jews who were unable to cross a street without facing persecution and uncertainty. And yet, there were also small children running laughing and playing through the dark rows, representing joy and hope. I almost laughed out loud because the feeling of oppression from the center of the memorial was lifted by something so innocent.
I don't know whether the emotions I experienced today were the ones intended by the artist who designed the memorial. I do know however, that the meorial was incredibly effective at conveying the utter depravity of the genocide waged against the Jews of Europe. I've been to the Holocaust Museum in Washington DC, and that always has struck me as a profoundly moving experience, yet the painful anonymity of all the victims, not even represented by names within the memorial, was far more moving than what I expected. It was definitely a memorial that has to be felt. You become as much a part of the memorial as the actual blocks of concrete.
I am glad I visited the memorial. It reminded me that while trying to defeat evil is exacting a price on those I care about, that the price of evil unchecked has the potential to be even worse. It is why I do not envy those who must make the decisions on when to act. The daily events portrayed by the media, and the ultimate sacrifice of our brothers and sisters in arms, as well as the innocent civilians, is an example of the price of action. Whether that action is merited, I'll leave alone in this forum. However, the memorial I experienced today was a very heart-rending reminder that evil that is allowed to run rampant is a truly horrifying possibility.
Fittingly, the memorial is neither black nor white, but shades of gray...